Plan a trip to Jerusalem

From the top of the Mount of Olives, we look down at the spectacular view of Jerusalem, the holy city. It is the only city in the world that has two dimensions: first, the earthly Jerusalem that we see in front of us across the Kidron Valley, and the other, the ethereal Jerusalem that has been etched for thousands of years in the minds, prayers, and dreams of Christians, Muslims, and Jews throughout the world. This is the city where the prophets walked, where King David composed the Book of Psalms, and where the House of God was, all turning Jerusalem into the eternal city.

The ringing of the church bells, the calls of the muezzins from the minarets of the mosques, and the Kaddish prayers coming up from the Jewish cemetery below us starkly bring us back to the observation point, to the earthly Jerusalem, from which we descend to the Jewish cemetery.

Since ancient times, Jews aspired to be buried on the Mount of Olives. They believe that, with the coming of the Messiah, the resurrection of the dead will begin from here, and many wanted the privilege of being among the first to welcome the Messiah.

We will connect to a narrow road known as the "Palm Sunday Road,” through which Jesus entered Jerusalem. The road descends from the mountain to the Kidron Valley, and we will reach a small church that is shaped like a teardrop. It is known as the "Lord Wept" church and in Latin - Dominus Flevit. From here, Jesus observed the temple and the city and wept over his prophecy of the future destruction of Jerusalem.

We will continue our descent and pass the Russian Eastern Orthodox church, Mary Magdalene, where, according to tradition, the remains of Saint Mary Magdalene are found in a relic box. The grandmother of the current King of England, Charles III, is also buried there.

We’ll then arrive at the Gethsemane Gardens, an ancient olive orchard, and the Church of All Nations (known also as the Basilica of the Agony). The church was built around the “stone of agony” where Jesus prayed the night before he was handed over to the Romans and crucified. Next to it is the Tomb of Virgin Mary, the burial place of the Mother of Christ.

From the Gethsemane Garden, you will reach the walls of the Old City of Jerusalem. The Old City is divided into four quarters – Armenian, Jewish, Christian, and Muslim – and has eight gates, seven of which are open.

We’ll enter through the Lion’s Gate, which is named for the two pairs of lions on either side of it. We’ll visit the pool of Bethesda, a huge reservoir of water where Jesus healed a paralyzed man. Adjacent to the pool is the Crusader Church of Santa Anna, beneath which there is a space where, according to tradition, Saint Anna gave birth to Mary, the mother of Messiah. The church is known for its special resonance, and many pilgrims wait in line to sing religious hymns there. This part of the tour provides travelers with an unusual experience - religious, archaeological, and musical all in one.

We will continue to the Old City and reach the Via Dolorosa (Latin for the “Sorrowful Way”), the last path of Jesus on earth. The road starts in the north of the Temple Mount in the Muslim Quarter and ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in the Christian Quarter. It passes through the bustling markets of the Old City and blends the sacred and the profane. The prayers of the pilgrims, carrying crosses on their backs, are mixed with the calls of the hawkers and merchants from the souvenir shops. Each station along the route tells what happened to Jesus on the way to the Rock of Calvary on which he was crucified. The last five stations are in the Church of the Sepulcher, and this is the only church in the world where eight different Christian denominations, sharing the same space, separately celebrate the return of the Son of God from the dead. Ironically, the keys to the church are actually in the hands of Muslims, who lock and unlock it every day.

Another important Christian site is the Hall of the Last Supper located on Mount Zion, outside the walls, in a building above King David's tomb. On your way there, visit the walled Armenian quarter with the St. Jacob's Cathedral in the center- a recommended visit, especially after midnight, when religious ceremonies are held there.

We’ll now come to the Jewish Quarter and begin our visit in the Cardo, where you can clearly see the well-preserved remains of the main street from the Roman period. There is a row of shops selling art and Jewish sacred objects such as yarmulkes, prayer shawls, menorahs, spinners, and candlesticks.

Highlights of the Jewish Quarter include the four Sephardi synagogues and the Ashkenazi "Hurva" Synagogue that was blown up by the Jordanians in the May 1948 War of Independence. The synagogue was rebuilt following the 1967 Six Day War, and its construction was completed in 2003. These sites tell the history of the area over the past centuries. In the Jewish Quarter, there are also important archaeological findings such as the Herodian suburb, which displays magnificent large houses from the Second Temple period, and the "Burnt House," testimony to the destruction of Jerusalem in 70 CE. The Jewish Quarter is also home to many kosher cafes, restaurants, bagel shops, and falafel stands. We will finish by going down to the Western Wall. The tour of the tunnel walls, which runs along its foundations, is highly recommended and must be booked in advance.

You can also visit the Temple Mount. Muslims have free access to the site, and they are the only ones allowed to enter the mosques. For non-Muslims, the site is open for short periods in the morning and in the afternoon. During these hours you can tour the huge square and enjoy the exterior of the Al-Aqsa Mosque, where the Prophet Muhammad prayed, and the Dome of the Rock, containing the upper part of Mount Moriah, where, according to Jewish tradition, the binding of Isaac took place (Muslims claim it was the binding of Ishmael). On the other side of the golden dome and the mosque, which is covered with Jerusalem's Armenian ceramic tiles, you’ll find a spectacular view of the Mount of Olives and its churches as well as the Gate of Mercy.

If you’re looking to supplement the holy sites with less sacred experiences, Jerusalem has much to offer! Let's start with the eastern bazaar, which is divided into markets that continue along narrow alleys covered with roofs, each specializing is something different: spices, meats, fabrics, souvenirs, and holy items for pilgrims. The city is studded with well-known hummus shops that, according to experts, are among the best in the country, as well as falafel and shawarma stalls, and restaurants and cafes centered around the Avtimus market near the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. In the area of the Nablus Gate, women from the nearby villages sell vegetables, and, from there, you can continue to the Viennese Cafe and enjoy delicious apple pie and whipped cream at the Austrian Hospice. From the roof of the hostel there is a panoramic view of the Old City and the Mount of Olives.

We will finish with a walk on the Old City walls, observing daily life in the different quarters, and then descend at the Jaffa Gate. This is where the old and new cities connect.

Jerusalem’s new city is home to many diverse sites, museums, fascinating neighborhoods, botanical gardens, and much more. In the heart of the new city is the Mahane Yehuda market. The market, which has traditionally been packed with stalls selling vegetables, fish, meat, housewares, and clothes, has transformed into one of the most important entertainment centers in the city. While still serving as a market, some of the old shops are now trendy restaurants, fast food stalls, and pubs, though some have remained as they always were. Some restaurants, such as Azura and Rachmo, still cook on kerosene burners, and the restaurant, Hatzot, still serves the original Jerusalem mix as it did forty years ago.

South of the market, across Agrippas Street, you can experience the charm and tranquility of the Nachalot area. To the north, across Jaffa Street, is the Makor Baruch neighborhood, an ultra-Orthodox enclave where the setting changes dramatically. The ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods of Jerusalem, the most famous of which is Mea Shearim, are reminiscent of the historic Jewish villages in Europe. The men wear black and white clothes and homburg hats, and the women are fully covered from head to toe. It is fascinating to walk through these neighborhoods, but women must dress modestly according to local custom, preferably in a long dress. The pants here are for men only!

Jerusalem is home to outstanding museums. Don’t miss the Israel Museum and the Shrine of the Book where the Dead Sea Scrolls are displayed. The museum houses outstanding collections of Israelite archeology, Jewish ethnology, and local modern art, and its structure and adjacent sculpture garden are outstanding. The Museum for Islamic Art, which collects, preserves, and exhibits Islamic art spanning many centuries, is another highlight. 

The Yad Vashem Holocaust Museum is located on Mount Herzl in the west of the city near the Mount Herzl cemetery. Binyamin Ze'ev Herzl, the visionary of the modern State of Israel, is buried there as are many of Israel's leaders. Next to it is the National Military Cemetery.

Under Mount Herzl there is the lovely green neighborhood of Ein Kerem. Christian pilgrims can visit the Church of the Visitation which commemorates the meeting of Mary with her cousin Elisheba. During the visit, Mary told her that she would give birth to a son. Elisheba’s song of praise - the Magnificent - is written on the walls of the courtyard in dozens of different languages. You can also visit the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist located in the center of the village. Above Ein Kerem, in the synagogue at Hadassah Medical Center, there are 12 stained glass windows by the famous Jewish artist, Marc Chagall, which are definitely worth a visit.

There are many charming neighborhoods in Jerusalem’s new city, including the German Colony which is home to lovely cafes and shops; the Hebrew University campus on Mount Scopus which has a beautiful Mediterranean botanical garden; and the National Library in Givat Ram with its beautiful stained glass windows by Ardon, as well as a botanical garden and cafe. The Promenade of the Governor's Palace offers a breathtaking view of Jerusalem from the south. On Ticho Street, in the heart of downtown Jerusalem, visit the house of Anna Ticho, a famous Israeli painter known for her landscapes of Jerusalem and enjoy the delicious café that is housed there.

It's hard to believe, but the holy city also has a vibrant nightlife. Some of the hot spots include the Nachalat Sheva area, Rivlin Street, the Russian Compound, and the Mahane Yehuda Market which are full of pubs and bars all week long, and many on Friday evenings, as well.

Jerusalem is Mediterranean in its landscape, but it is also on the edge of the desert - just a short drive from Mount Scopus. You’ll find completely different scenery there - the colors are yellowish, the ground is bare, the light is clearer and more powerful, and there’s less vegetation – this is the desert of the holy city. In fact, that's what it was called in the Byzantine period, and there were over sixty monasteries located there. They served the pilgrims who came down from Jerusalem to be baptized in the Jordan River, and, from here, the guidelines for Christian religious ceremonies were established. Three of the monasteries are still active today: Mar Saba on the Kidron Valley east of Bethlehem, St. George’s Monastery in Wadi Qelt, and Deir Hajla near Jordan, adjacent to Jericho. Each one is captivating!

Jerusalem… there is no other city in the world where transparent walls separate so many types of nationalities, people, denominations, and religions- Western Jews, secular Orthodox Jews, Catholic Christians, Orthodox Christians and Armenian Christians, Copts and Ethiopians, yet, somehow, there is a connection that works most of the time. It is not easy, but fascinating to see and experience this most unique story.

We will end with a verse from Psalms Chapter 122 that will always be relevant: "May peace be in your army, peace in your palaces."
Amen.