Classic Israel old and new

About Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv, a vibrant and exciting city, is a relatively new city in a country that has ancient roots. Founded in 1909 and built on the dreams and hopes of Jews who arrived there from all corners of the world, the city sprung up on the white sand dunes next to the ancient city of Jaffa – the very place where the prophet Jonah descended to escape from his God and on whose shores he was ejected from the belly of the whale. 

Tel Aviv, a vibrant and exciting city, is a relatively new city in a country that has ancient roots. Founded in 1909 and built on the dreams and hopes of Jews who arrived there from all corners of the world, the city sprung up on the white sand dunes next to the ancient city of Jaffa – the very place where the prophet Jonah descended to escape from his God and on whose shores he was ejected from the belly of the whale. 

The city was constructed at a dizzying pace, with each wave of refugees building a small community and enclave. The Yemenite Jews settled in the Shabazi neighborhood, and the Russians made Florentine their home. In the years preceding World War II, there was a large influx of Jewish refugees from Poland and Germany. The city became a colorful melting pot of cultures – the ubiquitous falafel stands along with Schubert's Piano Trio, sausage stands accompanied by native Yemenite melodies. As you head toward the opera and the concert halls, you’ll find oriental markets filled with the smells and sounds of Egypt, India, Iraq, and Turkey. Each culture brought its own characteristic building style. The German Bauhaus from the 1930’s, with its straight lines, is a dominant style – in fact, there are over 4,000 Bauhaus buildings in Tel Aviv, earning the city the nickname, “the White City.” This international style co-exists with many others, including houses decorated with oriental features. In Tel Aviv, it is almost impossible to find a single house that resembles its neighbor! As you walk from the famous Jaffa flea market toward the north of the city, the sights change quickly. You’ll see the colony of the Christian German Templars who aspired to lay a path to Christ and built houses with red tiled roofs. You’ll then arrive in Florentine, the "SoHo" of Tel Aviv - an area with outstanding wall murals and streets full of cafes and restaurants. You’ll then reach the Levinsky Market and find food specialties of just about every nationality. There are stalls laden with spices, herbs, legumes, vegetables, cheeses, pickles, and olives. Among the shops, there are Persian restaurants that give you the feeling that you are in Tehran, as well as various Jewish, Indian, and Bukhari restaurants. Adding to the eclectic mix, you’ll find all the flavors of the Far East represented here- from Thailand, to Vietnam, to Japan. Tel Aviv is the culinary capital of Israel and the place where an original, creative Israeli cuisine began to emerge - a blend of East and West. You’ll find everything from affordable street food in the bustling Carmel Market to gourmet restaurants that are deserving of visits from Michelin representatives. Tel Aviv is also the most important cultural center in Israel. It is the seat of the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra whose opening concert season in 1936-37 was conducted by Arturo Toscanini. This world-famous conductor came as a protest to the treatment of the Jews by the Germans when Hitler came to power. There is almost no evening in Tel Aviv without several musical events - starting with Israeli rock and roll, original jazz, ethnic music in the clubs scattered throughout the city, classical chamber music, and many concerts. The origins of modern Israeli art were in Tel Aviv, home to painters who were influenced by the bright sun, the strong colors of the region, and oriental motifs. The city is dotted with galleries that present the works of the most important Israeli artists. Local dance was also developed In Tel Aviv, with world-renowned contemporary dance groups such as the Bat Sheva Dance Group, which is based in the Suzan Dellal Center for Dance and Theater in the picturesque Neve Tzedek neighborhood. Museums are also an important part of Tel Aviv culture. Don’t miss the newly renovated Anu Museum which presents the history of the Jewish people around the world from the time of the exile two thousand years ago. The museum, whose exhibits are engaging and interactive, is located on the campus of Tel Aviv University. The Tel Aviv Museum of Art is an architectural gem and exhibits impressive collections of both Israeli and international contemporary and classic art. The Eretz Israel Museum houses collections of the country’s archaeology and traditions, including an on-site excavation of ruins from the 12th century. Tel Aviv is also known for its vibrant nightlife – from underground clubs to rooftop bars, you can dance the night away. A visit to Tel Aviv wouldn’t be complete without chillin’ on the city’s golden sand beaches that stretch for miles from the Tel Aviv port to the Jaffa port. There is a beautiful promenade and bike path which is lined with restaurants and cafes, and there are beach volleyball courts and enthusiastic paddle ball games all along the route. At the turquoise waters of the Tel Aviv beach, you’ll see an intermingling of bathers in a variety of swimming attire - from bikinied women, to Arab women in Burkas, to fully-clothed Orthodox women. And this sums up one of the most unique features of Tel Aviv – it is a modern, free city where everyone can do their thing and co-exist –secular, religious, LGBT, Christian, or Muslim. Tel Aviv is the city where the language of the Bible- Hebrew- was revived after 2,000 years and adapted to be a modern language. While Hebrew is most commonly spoken here, you’ll hear a mix of other languages, as well - English, French, Arabic, German and Yiddish. Lastly, and very important - here, in Tel Aviv, the State of Israel was born. On May 14, 1948, David Ben Gurion declared the state’s independence in Independence Hall located on the wide, stately Rothschild Boulevard. Really, there is no other place quite like this in the world that was created just over a hundred years ago. Just stroll the streets and take in your surroundings! You’ll start to understand why Tel Aviv, like New York, earned the moniker “the city that never sleeps!”

About Safed

When the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492, they dispersed to other countries, including to the Holy Land. Some settled in Safed, which is located in the Upper Galilee, and it became a holy city for Jews, in addition to Hebron, Tiberias, and Jerusalem, for a number of reasons.

When the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492, they dispersed to other countries, including to the Holy Land. Some settled in Safed, which is located in the Upper Galilee, and it became a holy city for Jews, in addition to Hebron, Tiberias, and Jerusalem, for a number of reasons.

Safed was less crowded than Jerusalem, and there was little friction with their Muslim and Christian neighbors for whom Safed was not religiously significant. Businesses such as weaving, spinning, and fabric dyeing thrived there, and the city's produce was sold throughout the Mediterranean basin, even competing with that of Venice. Safed tailors sewed clothes for the Ottoman army, and the dairy and vegetable markets were centered there. The rabbis and religious scholars who were expelled from Spain were drawn to Safed due to its proximity to the grave of Shimon Bar Yochai, who, according to tradition, wrote the Zohar - the central book in Kabbalah. Most were engaged in the mystical Kabbalah even before they arrived in Israel, but many of the centers of learning in Jerusalem were opposed to it. The beautiful, more remote city of Safed was an ideal place to engage in the examination of the relationship between man and his Creator, the essence of good and evil in our world, and calculations for the coming of the Messiah. Rabbi Isaac Luria was one of the great Kabbalists of Safed, and his teachings are still relevant to Kabbalah today. Safed is home to the graves of many famous scholars and rabbis, and it is also where Rabbi Josef Karo completed his famous legal code, the "Shulchan Aruch," (the Code of Jewish Law) in 1563. Most religious Jewish practice even today is based on this famous work. A visit to Safed generally focuses on the Old City with its charming narrow alleys and blue painted houses. Mount Meron, the highest mountain in Israel, is visible from there. The three most famous synagogues in the Old City are the Ashkenazi one – that of Rabbi Isaac Luria - and the two Sephardic synagogues, the 15th century Abuhav Synagogue and the 16th century Synagogue of Rabbi Josef Karo. The Old City is also home to a lovely Artists’ Quarter with many galleries displaying and selling Jewish art, religious objects such as Shabbat candlesticks, mezuzahs, prayer shawls, and menorahs, as well as studios which weave fabric and others that make colorful, unusual candles. The Beit Meiri Museum tells the story of the Jews in Safed Jews over the last two hundred years, and the General Exhibition, in the old Market Mosque, displays the creations of members of the Artists’ Quarter, past and current. In the "Tunnels of Safed," you’ll see rooms, ritual baths, water cisterns, and a bakery from the 16th century, and climb up to the nearby Crusader fortress, which has a beautiful garden. Safed's ancient cemetery is a must-see. The grave of Rabbi Josef Karo, known as the Holy Ari, draws many visitors who pray and ask for blessings. As the capital of the Upper Galilee, Safed is a great base for day trips in the area. Popular sites to visit include the grave of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yohai where the annual spring Lag B’Omer celebration takes place with hundreds of thousands of attendees; Mount Miron and the trail that surrounds the summit of the mountain overlooking a stunning view of the entire Galilee, the Golan, and Southern Lebanon; the Havat Bat Ya’ar ranch in the Biriya Forest; Zevcha, the burial place of Rabbi Jonathan Ben Uziel who is credited with matchmaking virtues; Rosh Pina, a quaint historic town with shopping, restaurants, and cafes; and Amirim, a unique vegan and vegetarian village with an impressive view of the Galilee and the Sea of Galilee, known in Hebrew as the “Kinneret” and great restaurants. You can also visit the nearby Sea of Galilee and enjoy all of its attractions. There are many wineries in and around Safed, such as the well-known Dalton Winery and the Galil Winery, and there are remains of ancient synagogues, possibly from the Roman period, in the Baram National Park. Safed is home to the renowned Klezmer festival of Jewish music which takes place at the end of the summer. The festival includes shows and performances by musicians from all over the world. Everyone is welcome with an open and, above all, happy heart!

About Acre

“If only I had succeeded in conquering Acre, I would have changed the face of the world," dictated Napoleon Bonaparte to the writer of his memoirs during his exile on the island of Saint Helena. Even he, one of the most famous generals in the annals of Europe, recognized the extraordinary importance of this northern port city to the eastern basin of the Mediterranean Sea. 

“If only I had succeeded in conquering Acre, I would have changed the face of the world," dictated Napoleon Bonaparte to the writer of his memoirs during his exile on the island of Saint Helena. Even he, one of the most famous generals in the annals of Europe, recognized the extraordinary importance of this northern port city to the eastern basin of the Mediterranean Sea. 

Acre (Hebrew: Akko) was the key and the entrance port to the Land of Israel, serving as the connecting axis between the East and the West. The famous traveler Marco Polo also stayed in the city- an important stop on his first journey to distant China. And he wasn’t the only one - throughout the Middle Ages and modern times, until new ports opened in the capital of Lebanon and in Haifa, Acre was a rich and lively city where travelers and merchants from all over the world gathered. It had bustling markets and a port full of goods from the East – everything from spices, perfumes, spices, and incense, to silk, precious gems, sugar cane, and cotton. Acre reached its peak during the Crusader period. Affluent Italian cities, such as Venice, Pisa, and Genoa fought fiercely to gain a foothold in Acre, and every square meter of the city was valuable. The Knights Templar, who protected the pilgrim convoys, joined the fight for control of the city as did the Knights of the Order of St. John who opened a huge hospital in the north of the city for the exhausted pilgrims who arrived in Acre by sea. This is thought to be the first hospital in Europe, giving the Knights of St. John the Baptist the name: Hospitallers. The Muslims built a new city on the Crusader ruins, and significant parts of the lower city have been excavated over the past 70 years. While in Acre, wander the halls of the knights and the tunnel of the Templars. The Turks built a citadel above the Crusader Quarter that, during the British Mandate, was turned into a prison for members of the resistance, before the establishment of the State of Israel. The citadel is now a museum where you can visit the prison cells and the gallows cell. Today, old Acre is an Arab city, and most of its inhabitants are Muslim. You’ll hear the voice of the muezzin five times a day, blending into the busy street that stretches between the Al Jazar Mosque and the port. The mosque has a wide courtyard with a place for worshippers to purify themselves. For a small fee you can visit it and enjoy Turkish architecture at its best. The mosque is a place of pilgrimage for the Muslims of the Galilee, and, according to the believers, a hair from the Prophet Muhammad's beard is kept there. To the right of the entrance to the mosque are the graves of Ahmed El Jazar and Suleiman Pasha, builders of the new Turkish Acre. From the courtyard of the mosque, a narrow staircase will take us down to a huge reservoir of drinking water. The water, which originated in springs about 8 miles north of the city, was transported by an aqueduct. The last aqueduct, built by Suleiman Pasha in 1812, can be clearly seen from the road near the adjacent Kibbutz of the Ghetto Fighters. The road from the mosque to the port leads to a colorful market full of spices, musical instruments, hookahs, tobacco shops, halva, peanuts, candied almonds, and pistachios, bakeries with sweet oriental pastries and pitas, hummus and falafel stands, housewares, and shops selling freshly caught fish from the port. At every corner, there are merchants squeezing fresh citrus juices, pomegranates, and sugar cane. In the small port which is used today for fishing and mooring modest yachts, you can go on a fun cruise around the walls of Acre. Be sure to walk on the wide walls of the Old City – it is said that Acre is not a city surrounded by a wall, but, rather, it is a large wall housing a small city inside. Near the harbor, on the way to the southern wall adjacent to the sea, you will pass by Khan al-Adamtan, which includes a large courtyard surrounded by granite columns looted from the ruins of Caesarea. This khan, built by Ai al-Jazar, was the most important market in Acre with shops on the ground level and an inn for guests on the upper level. Above the khan rises the clock tower built in 1900 to mark the 25th anniversary of the reign of the Turkish Sultan Abdul Hamid II in the Land of Israel. He was also the last sultan to rule the Holy Land. We will continue on the wall that runs along the sea from the Doniana restaurant, overlooking the harbor to the lighthouse, to the fish restaurant of Chef Uri Buri. We recommended strolling among the narrow and picturesque alleys. Acre's nightlife is centered around Khan Al Farang which was an important market dominated by 16th century French merchants until they were driven out by Al Jajar, who took over the cotton trade. Today it is lined with restaurants and cafes, and, if you’re interested, you can also go native and smoke hookah! Outside the Old City walls there are three sites that we recommend visiting: Napoleon's hill, from where Napoleon looked out over the city and was amazed to discover the mighty wall that was quickly erected by Ahmed al-Jazar just a few years before the French invasion of the Levant; the Tunisian Synagogue with the many mosaics documenting important events from the country's history; and the spacious and well-kept Baha'i garden north of the city where Baha'u'llah, the founder of the Baha'i religion, was laid to rest. The city of Acre was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001 and is a fascinating day trip through history!

About Caesarea

Caesarea, a short drive north of Tel Aviv, is an ancient port city whose construction was initiated in 22 BC by King Herod the Great. Caesarea was a grand city - the first city in the Holy Land which had advanced urban planning down to the last detail! It is located on the white dunes south of the Carmel, and it was chosen to be a deep sea harbor with an artificial breakwater- the largest of its kind in the Mediterranean Sea. The city of Caesarea, named by King Herod after Augustus Caesar who endowed it with the majority of its great public buildings, infrastructure, and monuments, was added to the port and became the capital of Roman and Byzantine Palestine.

Caesarea, a short drive north of Tel Aviv, is an ancient port city whose construction was initiated in 22 BC by King Herod the Great. Caesarea was a grand city - the first city in the Holy Land which had advanced urban planning down to the last detail! It is located on the white dunes south of the Carmel, and it was chosen to be a deep sea harbor with an artificial breakwater- the largest of its kind in the Mediterranean Sea. The city of Caesarea, named by King Herod after Augustus Caesar who endowed it with the majority of its great public buildings, infrastructure, and monuments, was added to the port and became the capital of Roman and Byzantine Palestine.

A significant portion of the spice trade, healing materials, and incense from Southern Arabia and the East was channeled by King Herod from the ports of Gaza and Jaffa to Caesarea. The profit from taxes and duties imposed on the expensive goods was huge and was used by the king to finance his many construction projects. In the large port, about a hundred ships could dock at the same time, and Yosef ben Matityahu, the historian of the period, notes that it was larger than the port of Piraeus and a thriving commercial hub. Herod, who was despised by many of his people, also built Caesarea as a port of refuge. The city’s residents were his loyalists, allowing him a clear escape route to Rome should a revolt arise. For Herod, who was devoted to the Roman Empire, Caesarea provided a foundation for the spread of Roman culture in Judea. He built a amphitheater in the city which has been restored, two hippodromes for chariot races, a huge and remarkable two-part (inner and outer) harbor, a nearby palace on the sea, warehouses for grain, oil, and wine, and a magnificent bath house. He also built a large temple above the harbor dedicated to his patron, Augustus, after whom both Caesarea and Sebastia in Samaria were named. There is a lighthouse overlooking the city whose remains are in the corner of the small fishing port. For Christians, Caesarea is significant as it was the city where Pontius Pilate ruled during the time of Jesus; the site where Simon Peter converted Cornelius, the Roman; and, during the 3rd and 4th centuries, it became an important center of the Christian Roman Empire. In the 7th century, the Muslims captured the city and partially destroyed it. While Caesarea never again regained its status, it was captured by the Crusaders in the 11th century, and its fortress walls were refortified. In the mid- 13th century, Caesarea was reconstructed by Louis IX, but, upon falling to the Mamluk sultan in 1265, the city was destroyed and left in ruins until the end of the 19th century.  The Caesarea National Park is home to the well-preserved amphitheater which is not only a remarkable relic of the past, but a present day, popular location for performances, including many concerts. From the inside of the amphitheater there is a spectacular view of the Mediterranean.  Other highlights of the park include the Reef Palace, the inner courtyard of the guest wing of Herod’s glorious palace with pillars facing the sea. Other remains of the palace can be seen, as well, though portions are submerged in the sea. The “Caesarea Experience” tells the story of the city’s history, and the archaeological park displays archaeological relics that were found all over the park. The Crusader gate has been reconstructed, and the area of the ancient port around which the Crusader city was built is a modern entertainment area with cafes, restaurants, and galleries. You’ll also find the Sculptures Park and the Caesarea Harbor Visitors’ Center with artifacts discovered underwater and a film about the life of King Herod. Today's port is much smaller than the Herodian port, and most of its breakwaters sank into the sea, but you can still see some of the old piers under the temple hill. The small mosque near the waterfront tells the story of Muslim families from Bosnia who were resettled by the Turks. Next to it are several restaurants and cafes overlooking the harbor and the sea – a great place for lunch or just a coffee break. Inside the harbor there is also a bathing beach. From Caesarea you can continue on a tour of the beautiful town of Binyamina, visit the burial plot of Baron Edmond de Rothschild who was a great supporter of Jewish settlement in Israel, and end with a visit to one of the famous wineries in nearby Zichron Ya'akov. L’Chaim!

About Ashkelon

Ashkelon is a coastal city in the Southern District of Israel on the Mediterranean coast. Ashkelon Khan and Museum contains archaeological finds, among them a replica of Ashkelon's Canaanite silver calf. The Outdoor Museum near the municipal cultural center displays two Roman burial coffins made of marble depicting battle and hunting scenes, and famous mythological scenes. The ancient site of Ashkelon is now a national park on the city's southern coast. The walls that encircled the city are still visible, as well as Canaanite earth ramparts. The park contains Byzantine, Crusader and Roman ruins.

Ashkelon is a coastal city in the Southern District of Israel on the Mediterranean coast. Ashkelon Khan and Museum contains archaeological finds, among them a replica of Ashkelon's Canaanite silver calf. The Outdoor Museum near the municipal cultural center displays two Roman burial coffins made of marble depicting battle and hunting scenes, and famous mythological scenes. The ancient site of Ashkelon is now a national park on the city's southern coast. The walls that encircled the city are still visible, as well as Canaanite earth ramparts. The park contains Byzantine, Crusader and Roman ruins.

About Eilat

Eilat is Israel's southernmost city, a busy port and popular resort at the northern tip of the Red Sea, on the Gulf of Aqaba. Eilat's arid desert climate and low humidity are moderated by proximity to a warm sea. The city's beaches, coral reef, nightlife and desert landscapes make it a popular destination for domestic and international tourism.

Eilat is Israel's southernmost city, a busy port and popular resort at the northern tip of the Red Sea, on the Gulf of Aqaba. Eilat's arid desert climate and low humidity are moderated by proximity to a warm sea. The city's beaches, coral reef, nightlife and desert landscapes make it a popular destination for domestic and international tourism.

About Ein Bokek

Ein Bokek is a hotel and resort district on the Israeli shore of the Dead Sea, near Neve Zohar. It is under the jurisdiction of the Tamar Regional Council. Archaeological findings at Ein Bokek include the ruins of Metzad Bokek, a small Roman-era fortress commanding the main road, and the remains of an ancient partly reconstructed perfume and medicine factory. The Bokek Stream, for which the district is named, is a canyon-like gorge with water springs and unique fauna and flora. The Zohar Hot Springs are located three kilometers south of Ein Bokek. Rich in sulphur, the water is believed to be particularly beneficial in the treatment of muscular ailments, diseases of the joints and allergies.

Ein Bokek is a hotel and resort district on the Israeli shore of the Dead Sea, near Neve Zohar. It is under the jurisdiction of the Tamar Regional Council. Archaeological findings at Ein Bokek include the ruins of Metzad Bokek, a small Roman-era fortress commanding the main road, and the remains of an ancient partly reconstructed perfume and medicine factory. The Bokek Stream, for which the district is named, is a canyon-like gorge with water springs and unique fauna and flora. The Zohar Hot Springs are located three kilometers south of Ein Bokek. Rich in sulphur, the water is believed to be particularly beneficial in the treatment of muscular ailments, diseases of the joints and allergies.

About Jerusalem

From the top of the Mount of Olives, we look down at the spectacular view of Jerusalem, the holy city. It is the only city in the world that has two dimensions: first, the earthly Jerusalem that we see in front of us across the Kidron Valley, and the other, the ethereal Jerusalem that has been etched for thousands of years in the minds, prayers, and dreams of Christians, Muslims, and Jews throughout the world. This is the city where the prophets walked, where King David composed the Book of Psalms, and where the House of God was, all turning Jerusalem into the eternal city.

From the top of the Mount of Olives, we look down at the spectacular view of Jerusalem, the holy city. It is the only city in the world that has two dimensions: first, the earthly Jerusalem that we see in front of us across the Kidron Valley, and the other, the ethereal Jerusalem that has been etched for thousands of years in the minds, prayers, and dreams of Christians, Muslims, and Jews throughout the world. This is the city where the prophets walked, where King David composed the Book of Psalms, and where the House of God was, all turning Jerusalem into the eternal city.

The ringing of the church bells, the calls of the muezzins from the minarets of the mosques, and the Kaddish prayers coming up from the Jewish cemetery below us starkly bring us back to the observation point, to the earthly Jerusalem, from which we descend to the Jewish cemetery. Since ancient times, Jews aspired to be buried on the Mount of Olives. They believe that, with the coming of the Messiah, the resurrection of the dead will begin from here, and many wanted the privilege of being among the first to welcome the Messiah. We will connect to a narrow road known as the "Palm Sunday Road,” through which Jesus entered Jerusalem. The road descends from the mountain to the Kidron Valley, and we will reach a small church that is shaped like a teardrop. It is known as the "Lord Wept" church and in Latin - Dominus Flevit. From here, Jesus observed the temple and the city and wept over his prophecy of the future destruction of Jerusalem. We will continue our descent and pass the Russian Eastern Orthodox church, Mary Magdalene, where, according to tradition, the remains of Saint Mary Magdalene are found in a relic box. The grandmother of the current King of England, Charles III, is also buried there. We’ll then arrive at the Gethsemane Gardens, an ancient olive orchard, and the Church of All Nations (known also as the Basilica of the Agony). The church was built around the “stone of agony” where Jesus prayed the night before he was handed over to the Romans and crucified. Next to it is the Tomb of Virgin Mary, the burial place of the Mother of Christ. From the Gethsemane Garden, you will reach the walls of the Old City of Jerusalem. The Old City is divided into four quarters – Armenian, Jewish, Christian, and Muslim – and has eight gates, seven of which are open. We’ll enter through the Lion’s Gate, which is named for the two pairs of lions on either side of it. We’ll visit the pool of Bethesda, a huge reservoir of water where Jesus healed a paralyzed man. Adjacent to the pool is the Crusader Church of Santa Anna, beneath which there is a space where, according to tradition, Saint Anna gave birth to Mary, the mother of Messiah. The church is known for its special resonance, and many pilgrims wait in line to sing religious hymns there. This part of the tour provides travelers with an unusual experience - religious, archaeological, and musical all in one. We will continue to the Old City and reach the Via Dolorosa (Latin for the “Sorrowful Way”), the last path of Jesus on earth. The road starts in the north of the Temple Mount in the Muslim Quarter and ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in the Christian Quarter. It passes through the bustling markets of the Old City and blends the sacred and the profane. The prayers of the pilgrims, carrying crosses on their backs, are mixed with the calls of the hawkers and merchants from the souvenir shops. Each station along the route tells what happened to Jesus on the way to the Rock of Calvary on which he was crucified. The last five stations are in the Church of the Sepulcher, and this is the only church in the world where eight different Christian denominations, sharing the same space, separately celebrate the return of the Son of God from the dead. Ironically, the keys to the church are actually in the hands of Muslims, who lock and unlock it every day. Another important Christian site is the Hall of the Last Supper located on Mount Zion, outside the walls, in a building above King David's tomb. On your way there, visit the walled Armenian quarter with the St. Jacob's Cathedral in the center- a recommended visit, especially after midnight, when religious ceremonies are held there. We’ll now come to the Jewish Quarter and begin our visit in the Cardo, where you can clearly see the well-preserved remains of the main street from the Roman period. There is a row of shops selling art and Jewish sacred objects such as yarmulkes, prayer shawls, menorahs, spinners, and candlesticks. Highlights of the Jewish Quarter include the four Sephardi synagogues and the Ashkenazi "Hurva" Synagogue that was blown up by the Jordanians in the May 1948 War of Independence. The synagogue was rebuilt following the 1967 Six Day War, and its construction was completed in 2003. These sites tell the history of the area over the past centuries. In the Jewish Quarter, there are also important archaeological findings such as the Herodian suburb, which displays magnificent large houses from the Second Temple period, and the "Burnt House," testimony to the destruction of Jerusalem in 70 CE. The Jewish Quarter is also home to many kosher cafes, restaurants, bagel shops, and falafel stands. We will finish by going down to the Western Wall. The tour of the tunnel walls, which runs along its foundations, is highly recommended and must be booked in advance. You can also visit the Temple Mount. Muslims have free access to the site, and they are the only ones allowed to enter the mosques. For non-Muslims, the site is open for short periods in the morning and in the afternoon. During these hours you can tour the huge square and enjoy the exterior of the Al-Aqsa Mosque, where the Prophet Muhammad prayed, and the Dome of the Rock, containing the upper part of Mount Moriah, where, according to Jewish tradition, the binding of Isaac took place (Muslims claim it was the binding of Ishmael). On the other side of the golden dome and the mosque, which is covered with Jerusalem's Armenian ceramic tiles, you’ll find a spectacular view of the Mount of Olives and its churches as well as the Gate of Mercy. If you’re looking to supplement the holy sites with less sacred experiences, Jerusalem has much to offer! Let's start with the eastern bazaar, which is divided into markets that continue along narrow alleys covered with roofs, each specializing is something different: spices, meats, fabrics, souvenirs, and holy items for pilgrims. The city is studded with well-known hummus shops that, according to experts, are among the best in the country, as well as falafel and shawarma stalls, and restaurants and cafes centered around the Avtimus market near the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. In the area of the Nablus Gate, women from the nearby villages sell vegetables, and, from there, you can continue to the Viennese Cafe and enjoy delicious apple pie and whipped cream at the Austrian Hospice. From the roof of the hostel there is a panoramic view of the Old City and the Mount of Olives. We will finish with a walk on the Old City walls, observing daily life in the different quarters, and then descend at the Jaffa Gate. This is where the old and new cities connect. Jerusalem’s new city is home to many diverse sites, museums, fascinating neighborhoods, botanical gardens, and much more. In the heart of the new city is the Mahane Yehuda market. The market, which has traditionally been packed with stalls selling vegetables, fish, meat, housewares, and clothes, has transformed into one of the most important entertainment centers in the city. While still serving as a market, some of the old shops are now trendy restaurants, fast food stalls, and pubs, though some have remained as they always were. Some restaurants, such as Azura and Rachmo, still cook on kerosene burners, and the restaurant, Hatzot, still serves the original Jerusalem mix as it did forty years ago. South of the market, across Agrippas Street, you can experience the charm and tranquility of the Nachalot area. To the north, across Jaffa Street, is the Makor Baruch neighborhood, an ultra-Orthodox enclave where the setting changes dramatically. The ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods of Jerusalem, the most famous of which is Mea Shearim, are reminiscent of the historic Jewish villages in Europe. The men wear black and white clothes and homburg hats, and the women are fully covered from head to toe. It is fascinating to walk through these neighborhoods, but women must dress modestly according to local custom, preferably in a long dress. The pants here are for men only! Jerusalem is home to outstanding museums. Don’t miss the Israel Museum and the Shrine of the Book where the Dead Sea Scrolls are displayed. The museum houses outstanding collections of Israelite archeology, Jewish ethnology, and local modern art, and its structure and adjacent sculpture garden are outstanding. The Museum for Islamic Art, which collects, preserves, and exhibits Islamic art spanning many centuries, is another highlight.  The Yad Vashem Holocaust Museum is located on Mount Herzl in the west of the city near the Mount Herzl cemetery. Binyamin Ze'ev Herzl, the visionary of the modern State of Israel, is buried there as are many of Israel's leaders. Next to it is the National Military Cemetery. Under Mount Herzl there is the lovely green neighborhood of Ein Kerem. Christian pilgrims can visit the Church of the Visitation which commemorates the meeting of Mary with her cousin Elisheba. During the visit, Mary told her that she would give birth to a son. Elisheba’s song of praise - the Magnificent - is written on the walls of the courtyard in dozens of different languages. You can also visit the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist located in the center of the village. Above Ein Kerem, in the synagogue at Hadassah Medical Center, there are 12 stained glass windows by the famous Jewish artist, Marc Chagall, which are definitely worth a visit. There are many charming neighborhoods in Jerusalem’s new city, including the German Colony which is home to lovely cafes and shops; the Hebrew University campus on Mount Scopus which has a beautiful Mediterranean botanical garden; and the National Library in Givat Ram with its beautiful stained glass windows by Ardon, as well as a botanical garden and cafe. The Promenade of the Governor's Palace offers a breathtaking view of Jerusalem from the south. On Ticho Street, in the heart of downtown Jerusalem, visit the house of Anna Ticho, a famous Israeli painter known for her landscapes of Jerusalem and enjoy the delicious café that is housed there. It's hard to believe, but the holy city also has a vibrant nightlife. Some of the hot spots include the Nachalat Sheva area, Rivlin Street, the Russian Compound, and the Mahane Yehuda Market which are full of pubs and bars all week long, and many on Friday evenings, as well. Jerusalem is Mediterranean in its landscape, but it is also on the edge of the desert - just a short drive from Mount Scopus. You’ll find completely different scenery there - the colors are yellowish, the ground is bare, the light is clearer and more powerful, and there’s less vegetation – this is the desert of the holy city. In fact, that's what it was called in the Byzantine period, and there were over sixty monasteries located there. They served the pilgrims who came down from Jerusalem to be baptized in the Jordan River, and, from here, the guidelines for Christian religious ceremonies were established. Three of the monasteries are still active today: Mar Saba on the Kidron Valley east of Bethlehem, St. George’s Monastery in Wadi Qelt, and Deir Hajla near Jordan, adjacent to Jericho. Each one is captivating! Jerusalem… there is no other city in the world where transparent walls separate so many types of nationalities, people, denominations, and religions- Western Jews, secular Orthodox Jews, Catholic Christians, Orthodox Christians and Armenian Christians, Copts and Ethiopians, yet, somehow, there is a connection that works most of the time. It is not easy, but fascinating to see and experience this most unique story. We will end with a verse from Psalms Chapter 122 that will always be relevant: "May peace be in your army, peace in your palaces."Amen.