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A Culinary Trip through Dordogne, France

The culinary scene in France is renowned globally for its richness, diversity, and emphasis on quality ingredients. It is deeply rooted in French culture and holds a significant place in the hearts of the French people. A prominent feature of French gastronomy is its regional variety. Each region in France, one of Europe’s largest countries, boasts its own specialties, ingredients, and cooking techniques, influenced by climate, geography, and historical traditions. Wine, a quintessential French symbol, also has a regionally distinct style and flavor, complementing local delicacies.

Popular itinerary for a Culinary Trip through Dordogne:

A journey to France is a voyage through a myriad of flavors and culinary experiences, from Michelin-starred restaurants to humble bistros and vibrant markets offering fresh produce. Food in France is not merely sustenance but a vital aspect of French culture. Dining is a ritual, with meals savored slowly and often shared with loved ones. The French take great pride in their culinary heritage and are passionate about preserving and promoting their culinary traditions.

The culinary heritage of South-West France is heavily influenced by its close proximity to Spain and the Basque Country, resulting in a rustic region with deep-rooted traditions in local produce. One of the most famous delicacies originating from this region is Foie Gras, a dish made from the fattened liver of ducks or geese. Foie gras holds a central place in the local cuisine and is savored in various forms, including terrines, pâtés, and seared slices. Duck also features prominently in Southwest French cooking, appearing in dishes such as confit de canard (duck confit) and magret de canard (duck breast).

Another beloved local specialty is cassoulet, a hearty and slow-cooked stew that originated in the Languedoc region of South-West France. Prepared with white beans, duck or goose confit, sausage, and sometimes pork, cassoulet is a comforting and deeply satisfying dish enjoyed throughout the region, particularly during the colder seasons.

Southwest France is home to several renowned wine-producing regions, including Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion, and Cahors. The Bordeaux area is famous for its red wines, which are often made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc grapes. Cahors is known for its robust and tannic Malbec wines.

Cheese lovers will delight in the wide variety of cheeses produced in the region, from creamy sheep’s milk cheeses like Ossau-Iraty and Brebis Pyrénées to tangy goat cheeses like Rocamadour, catering to every taste preference.

A hallmark of France, particularly in rural areas, is its vibrant markets, which play a central role in the gastronomic experience. These markets offer an array of fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and other local delicacies. The ideal way to stock up on a variety of cheeses, dried meats, breads, and other gourmet treats is to explore the local market and enjoy a picnic in nature.

Day 1: Bordeaux

Bordeaux, once a major city in the Duchy of Aquitaine, is primarily renowned as an important wine-producing region, having evolved the viticulture traditions first developed by the Romans. Bordeaux also served as a major port, exporting wines and other goods bound for England, and flourishing along the bustling banks of the Garonne River.

The day begins at the Place de la Bourse and the Water Mirror (Miroir d’eau). Formerly known as Place Royale, Place de la Bourse was originally constructed as a royal palace during the reign of King Louis XV. The architectural ensemble reflects the neoclassical style, with the Palais de la Bourse at its center, serving as the city’s stock exchange.

A modern addition to the Place de la Bourse is the Water Mirror, the world’s largest reflecting pool that also serves as a refreshing spot to cool down during the hot summer days. Wander through the narrow alleys towards Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux, an 11th century Gothic cathedral and the venue for the wedding of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Louis VII of France in 1137. Other noteworthy sites in the city center include the Grosse Cloche, or the “Great Bell,” originally part of the city’s gates and now serving as a public clock for festivities and special occasions. Two other remarkable churches not to miss are the Basilique Saint-Michel, which hosts the Les Puces de St Michel flea market four times a week, and the Église Sainte-Croix de Bordeaux, showcasing a blend of architectural styles, including Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance elements.

For lunch, indulge in authentic Bordeaux cuisine at a traditional Bordeaux bistro. Sample dishes such as confit de canard (duck confit), entrecôte bordelaise (steak with Bordeaux wine sauce), and, of course, a selection of local cheeses, all accompanied with local red wine.

Bordeaux bistro, France

In the evening, treat yourself to a Michelin-starred dining experience at one of the twelve prestigious restaurants in Bordeaux.

Stay overnight in Bordeaux.

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Day 2: Bordeaux, continued

Today’s tour will take you to several wineries in the Medoc region, situated north of Bordeaux and renowned as the center of Bordeaux wine production. Head towards Pauillac, where expansive vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see. Nestled amidst these vineyards are stately chateaus, grand estate buildings that now predominantly function as wineries, visitor centers, and luxurious hotels. Choose one or more of these chateaus to visit and enjoy the tour of the winery to learn about the winemaking process and savor a taste of the local wine. Don’t forget to explore the winery shop for souvenirs and to purchase wine.

Pauillac hosts its weekly market on Tuesdays, providing a wonderful opportunity to buy fresh products for a scenic picnic along the riverbanks.

In the afternoon, visit the La Cité du Vin, a wine museum housed in an ultra-modern building dedicated to the history and culture of wine from around the world. The museum uses sensory and interactive displays to tell the story of wine. You can also enjoy the museum’s restaurant, a bar, and wine shop.

Spend the night in Bordeaux.

Day 3: Heading East to Saint Émilion

Today’s drive will be east, departing from Bordeaux, crossing the Garonne River, and arriving in Saint Émilion. Saint Émilion is not only the heart of a renowned wine region bearing the same name but also a historic town that served as an important stop for pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela.

Saint Emilion, France

The town is named after Emilian, a monk who lived in a cave in the village and surrounded himself with faithful pupils and pilgrims who sought his blessings. One of the town’s most important attractions is the underground Monolithic Church. Guided tours of this remarkable site are available through the Tourist Information Office and are highly recommended.

There are many chateaus in the area surrounding Saint Émilion, each offering unique insights into the region’s winemaking tradition. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit at least one of these estates.

Spend the night in Sarlat-la-Canéda.

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Day 4: Sarlat-la-Canéda

Sarlat-la-Canéda is the largest town in the Dordogne valley. Originally a market town, it developed during medieval times into an important regional trade center, exchanging goods such as saffron, walnuts, and truffles. The town’s distinctive golden hue, emanating from buildings constructed from local yellow limestone, casts a mesmerizing glow, particularly at sundown.

The weekly market is held twice a week, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, so be sure to plan ahead to spend a whole day in Sarlat. The market is located in the center of town, around the Cathedral of Saint-Sacerdos and the adjacent streets.

In front of the cathedral, you’ll see the magnificent Maison de La Boétie, the childhood home of the famous Renaissance writer Etienne de La Boétie. This beautifully preserved house showcases Renaissance style and elegance. For a further glimpse into the opulence of the era, continue your journey up the street to Manoir Gisson, which exhibits the interior of a grand manor.

Before dinner, embrace the local tradition and enjoy an “apéro,” or pre-dinner drinks of cocktails or sparkling wine, at one of the sidewalk cafes.

Spend the night in Sarlat.

Day 5: Dordogne Valley Villages

The Dordogne valley is home to some of the most beautiful villages in France. Today’s journey will be to three of them, all just a short drive from Sarlat.

The first destination is Domme, one of the villages known as a “bastide,” a small fortified town. Domme, surrounded by a defensive wall that was built during the Hundred Years’ War between France and England, is built on a hill overlooking the Dordogne River and valley. Don’t miss the weekly market on Thursdays, offering an array of fresh products ideal for a scenic picnic.

The next stop is La Roque-Gageac, a medieval village built into the limestone cliffs that descend into the river below. Stroll through its charming alleyways, or opt for a more adventurous experience by kayaking on the river – a perfect way to spend a few leisurely hours enjoying the village’s natural beauty.

The third stop will bring you to Beynac-et-Cazenac, arguably the most popular village in the Dordogne valley, renowned for its appearance in numerous films. One of its most famous cinematic appearances was in the 2000 movie “Chocolat,” starring Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche. The village, characterized by its charming yellow limestone houses, ascends from the riverbank up the cliffside to the imposing Château de Beynac—a medieval fortress associated with King Richard the Lionheart. A visit to this historic fortress is highly recommended. For those who find the climb challenging, you have the option of driving up the hill and parking in front of the castle.

Beynac-et-Cazenac, Dordogne valley, France

During the Hundred Years’ War, both the French and English constructed fortresses to defend their territory. Directly opposite the Château de Beynac, on the other side of the river, lies the Château de Castelnaud-la-Chapelle. This castle, now transformed into a Middle Ages War Museum, offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient weaponry and armor with its display of over 250 pieces.

Spend the night in Sarlat.

Day 6: Gouffre De Padirac

Today’s route will lead you to explore some of nature’s most breathtaking wonders. The first destination is the awe-inspiring Gouffre De Padirac. As you approach the site, you’ll be greeted by a seemingly ordinary round hole in the earth. Legend has it that Saint Martin bravely defied the devil by leaping over the abyss on his mule, causing the defeated devil to vanish forever into the depths of the Gouffre. Descending 338 feet into the underground section, you’ll sail in a small boat, passing through the Hall of the Grand Dome adorned with spectacular mineral formations.

After this unforgettable experience, head to Rocamadour, another of the most beautiful villages in south France and a religious site. Rocamadour, initially established as a religious sanctuary, has long been a magnet for pilgrims drawn primarily to its revered black Madonna statue. The village is structured across three levels, symbolizing the three societal orders: the knights dwell in the castle above, the religious clerics reside in the middle, and the common folk who serve both occupy the lower level near the river.

Rocamadour, France

The best way to visit Rocamadour is to park your car near the castle and make your way down to the religious part on foot via the Chemin De Croix – the Path of the Cross- with 12 stations reminiscent of the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem. From the religious complex to the village, you’ll see Le Grand Escalier, or the Great Stairs.

In the village itself, relish a delightful lunch at one of the restaurants and savor the renowned Rocamadour goat cheese. To return to the parking lot, take the elevator and cable car from the village center.

Rocamadour also hosts an annual hot-air balloon festival, held on the fourth weekend of September each year. This lively event adds an additional layer of excitement to the town’s already enchanting atmosphere.

Spend the night in Sarlat.

Day 7: Grotte du Pech Merle and Cahors

Today’s drive will take you further east, towards Grotte du Pech Merle, renowned for its prehistoric caves adorned with remarkable wall paintings. Guided tours of the caves offer insight into the rich history and geology of the region, complemented by a museum showcasing the caves’ significance and the lives of the ancient inhabitants.

From there, drive to the village of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie for a delightful lunch. This picturesque village, nestled atop a cliff 328 feet above the River Lot, is celebrated as one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France. Its charming streets are lined with boutiques and galleries, attracting both artists and visitors.

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, France

Continue your journey to Cahors, an historic town believed to have been founded by Celtic settlers. Renowned for its distinctive dark red wines, Cahors boasts a scenic landscape dotted with medieval landmarks. Explore the medieval Pont Valentré, adorned with three towers, and marvel at the 900-year-old Saint-Etienne Cathedral with its Romanesque domes. The town center is replete with medieval architecture, while remnants of a Roman amphitheater can be found in the Amphitheater car park.

In the evening, indulge in a delectable dinner at a local restaurant, savoring the flavors of walnuts, truffles, and Cahors wine that characterize the region’s culinary experience.

Spend the night in Cahors.

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Day 8: Albi

Today’s excursion is to Albi, situated on the banks of the River Tarn in the Occitane region. This city was once a stronghold of the Cathars, a Christian sect persecuted by the Roman Catholic Church during the 12th century. Later, Albi became the seat of the Archbishop.

The prominent landmarks in Albi include St. Cecile’s Cathedral, renowned for its dual role as a Gothic fortress. Constructed of red brick, it is the largest brick building in the world. Adjacent to the cathedral stands the Bishop’s Palace, now home to the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum. This museum showcases the works of the famed painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, celebrated for his depictions and advertisements of Parisian nightlife.

Stroll the small alleys or take a guided tour of the city, stopping for lunch in one of the charming local restaurants.

Spend the night in Toulouse.

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Day 9: Carcassonne

Carcassonne, another town steeped in the history of the Cathars, is perched atop a cliff, strategically positioned to control key routes from west to east (the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean) and from north to south (the Massif Central to the Pyrénées). Once a bastion of the Cathars, Carcassonne faced the brunt of the crusade launched by the Catholic Church, resulting in the forced surrender of its citizens, who were subsequently expelled from their homes with nothing but the clothes on their backs.

Visit the imposing Castle of Carcassonne and the Ramparts and stroll the town’s medieval alleyways. Indulge in the local culinary delights, a delectable fusion of Mediterranean and countryside cuisine. The cassoulet, a traditional hearty stew brimming with various meats and vegetables, is a must-try delicacy, as are forest mushrooms, truffles, nuts, snails, and the exquisite local wines that complement the flavors of the countryside.

In the newer part of town, known as The Bastide Saint-Louis, you’ll find other notable attractions. The Museum of Fine Arts houses an extensive collection of artistic treasures, offering insight into the region’s cultural legacy and artistic richness. The Saint Michel Cathedral is a magnificent architectural wonder that symbolizes the city’s deep religious and historical roots.

Spend the night in Toulouse.

Day 10: Toulouse

To conclude the trip, your last day is dedicated to exploring Toulouse, often referred to as the “Pink City” due to the pink hues of its buildings. As the capital of the Occitania region, Toulouse boasts a rich history dating back to Roman times and served as the capital of the Visigoth kingdom following the Roman era.

The fourth-largest city in France, Toulouse is renowned today as a hub for the aerospace industry, housing a significant Airbus manufacturing plant. The city center is characterized by prominent landmarks such as Le Capitole, which houses the city hall and justice court. Other notable monuments include La Basilique Saint-Sernin, recognized as the largest Romanesque church in France, as well as La Cathedrale Saint-Etienne and the Couvent Des Jacobins. Take a leisurely stroll along the banks of the Garonne River to soak in the city’s picturesque scenery.

La Basilique Saint-Sernin, Toulouse, France

Be sure to explore the vibrant markets of Toulouse, including the open-air Marche Cristal and the covered Marche Couvert Saint-Cyprien, soaking in the local culture, and indulging in delicious culinary delights.

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